北疆的秋天，新疆10天自由行
第1天<br class='-Day-' /><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">拿起单反的近五年时间里，我走过许多美丽的地方，而最美莫过于北疆之秋。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">南迦巴瓦的雪山曾令我欢呼，纳木错的雪后神湖曾令我感动，黄山的壮阔云海曾令我心悸，但我最爱的还是白哈巴-喀纳斯-禾木的大美秋色。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">因为南迦巴瓦的雪山太羞涩，终年云雾缭绕，从不轻易露出真面目； </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">而纳木错若是失去了光照，便要黯淡了它的神光； </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">至于黄山，要邂逅它大美时刻实在太辛苦，我二上黄山，前后整整六天，多数日子大雾迷蒙，至今未得窥探它全貌。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">而喀纳斯的秋色是如此平易亲和，阳光灿烂时明媚动人，阴云密布也不失华彩。淡妆浓抹总相宜，这是所有美景的共性，但谁也没有喀纳斯这样慷慨，好几百平方公里的土地上处处是风景，而最美的风景又往往在路上，山川河流，牛羊植被，无不动人。国家地理杂志推它做“中国秋色第一”，这个状元郎，它当之无愧。</span><div class=""><p class=""></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/amMLB1JT.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ohMT7KcU.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; color: rgb(0, 167, 225); font-family: Arial, 'Droid Sans', 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Hiragino Sans GB', STXihei, simsun, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 32px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></div><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/1429885224659p19jlskgi51i4n1umi1hmv1g6e1bn11i.jpg-display_g"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></div><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第2天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">胡乱睡了一觉，吃罢早餐，我们一行20人在领队子文的带领下分乘5辆越野车，向北疆进发，开始北疆自驾行。<br>乌鲁木齐往西北至克拉玛依沿途无甚景观，只有间杂着辣椒地的棉田，除此之外就是一望无际的大戈壁。越野车沿着笔直的公里。<br>向西向北一直开，都是如此，一百公里与另一百公里长着同样的面容，好几个小时过去，变化的只有地名。<br>当我们被单调的景观弄得疲乏不堪时，公路两边开始时不时出现小规模的雅丹地貌，这种地貌的出现说明这里已经进入克拉玛依的地界。而我们的第一个目的地乌尔禾魔鬼城也即将出现。<br>“雅丹”原是维吾尔族语，意为陡峭的土丘，是一种典型的风蚀地貌。在极旱地区的干涸湖底开裂后，风沿着这些裂隙吹蚀，将原来平坦地面发育切割成垄脊和沟槽。有些地貌状似城堡，大风袭来时，烟尘滚滚，鬼哭狼嚎，故称魔鬼城。而乌尔禾魔鬼城是其中的一个，曾被《中国国家地理》“选美中国”活动推举为中国最美雅丹的第一名。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547234" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547234|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547234" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547234|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; 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position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547236" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547236|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547236" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547236|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="http://p.chanyouji.cn/215512/1429885239888p19jlskgi510ff147513fv1bo51mrr1k.jpg?imageView/1/w/350/h/234" src="http://p.chanyouji.cn/215512/1429885239888p19jlskgi510ff147513fv1bo51mrr1k.jpg?imageView/1/w/350/h/234" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div id="img27547237" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547237|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547237" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547237|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/rRaj1u6V.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/rRaj1u6V.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div></div><font color="#000000">?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></font><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第3天<br class='-Day-' /><p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">9月26日，6点钟起床，繁星满天，来不及细细欣赏，便登车直趋<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">白哈巴</span>。<br>领队说，必须在中午13点前赶到白哈巴景区大门，只有这样，才有机会自驾白哈巴到<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">喀纳斯</span>的景区。<br>昨日的午餐是方便面，今日的早餐是馕加凉水。摄影团星夜兼程，风餐露宿，就是这么苦逼。但想一想远方的美色正在招展，华丽的秋天正在呼召，还有什么理由把时间消耗在吃饭、睡觉之上？此时此刻，世界上已经没有比错失美景更大的罪行了！<br>一路向北飞奔，直将黑夜开出晨光，右手边的地平线渐渐亮堂起来，霞光开始隐现，预告着壮丽的日出即将上演。<br>天色又更加鲜亮了，万道霞光已经迫不及待地从黑暗里雀跃而出。<br>向东是一片大草原，并无特别好的前景，但日出不等人，就这么将就吧！<br>来不及选机位，更缺乏前景，怎么办？这个难不倒我们，此刻没有比人与车更好的最好前景了。<br>东方彩霞织天，初升的朝阳打败了最后的黑暗，宣告白昼统治的到来。草原的风，静止了；高天的霞，退潮了；远处的山，清晰了。晨光下可以眺望到极远处，几只放养的骆驼在山丘下悠闲地漫步。<br>回身看看西面，暖色的阳光把山丘和草地都染成了金色，要知道白天的它们看起来都是灰头土脸的模样。多么辉煌灿烂的阳光，你是最伟大的灯光师！</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547238" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div><div id="img27547238" class="" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/XaRwtnxq.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/XaRwtnxq.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547238" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/uszKVe0V.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/uszKVe0V.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></p></div><div id="img27547239" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547239|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547239" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547239|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1KgXn7rq.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1KgXn7rq.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></p></div></div><font size="3">也不知道开了多久，渐渐地，可以到了金灿灿的白桦树，先是形单影只的独木，之后是三五成群的团伙，再后来大路的两边排得整整齐齐，全都是白桦树。在<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/xinjiang100008.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_100008_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">新疆</a>，绿洲的出现意味着城市就在眼前，这座城市就叫<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/buerjin1010.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_1010_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">布尔津</a>。<br>布尔津并不大，仅有两万人口，但却是我见过最干净明亮的城市。满城都是金灿灿或绿油油的树木、蓝幽幽或红通通的屋顶，白晃晃或黄澄澄的墙身，还有亮堂堂的马路，小而精，美而纯，在灰蒙蒙的荒漠里突然邂逅这样的小城，仿佛掉进童话世界一般不真实。<br>抵达布尔津时是11点，饥肠辘辘，随便找了家清真餐馆，要份丸子汤，就算把早餐连同午餐一起打发了。<br>出了布尔津，依然是草原，只是牛羊渐多，时有成百上千的牛羊群沿着公路做集团军行动，偶尔还会挡住车辆的去路，这是牧民在转场。<br>游牧民族逐水草而牧，他们会根据四季的特点，驱赶牲口选择新的牧场。而转场本身也成了北疆移动的风景。<br>转场途中担任运输任务的是骆驼，它们的负重能力远胜于牛马。一个典型的哈萨克族牧民家庭转场需要至少4峰骆驼，而队列也是有讲究的。第一峰骆驼负责运被褥，有时妇女儿童也骑在它身上。随后的骆驼则运衣服、日用品、食物、毡房。男人们则骑着马，赶着大群的牛羊紧跟在后面。<br></font></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><p class=""><font size="3">铁列克提大峡谷下静静流淌的便是中哈界河——阿克哈巴。这个河谷曲折而行，东南有个安静的小村庄，它有个动听的名字，叫做<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/sight/kanasi816/25275.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_816_sid25275_2_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">白哈巴</a>。<br>村庄很小，站在村口，一眼就能望到村子的另一头。村子遍布着尖顶木屋，这些原木垒砌的小屋错落有致，房前屋后用简单的栅栏隔离，却几乎看不到门锁。鸟雀们飞落于草垛，觅食时旁若无人。人们可以随便出入，就像回家一样自由。院落蓬门大开，任尔出入，连狗都无拒人之意。<br>白哈巴其实是个混搭的词汇，白是汉语，哈巴是蒙语——落差大的小河。这里的原住民是图瓦人，也充满了混搭的意味。图瓦的祖先是蒙古人，然而图瓦人却与维吾尔族一样使用突厥语系的语言，而非蒙古语。<br>数十年前，为了边境安全，部分哈萨克族人被迁至该地，与图瓦人混搭而居。<br>这是个以混搭为主旋律的村庄，这种混搭的氛围到了秋天，进入了激动人心的高潮。<br>雪山下混搭着森林，小河边混搭着村庄，褐红色的草甸混搭着树木，火红的杨、金黄的桦这些落叶树木中混搭着四季长绿的松树与杉树。<br>它们五彩斑斓，流光溢彩，晴天时是热烈的油画、阴天时是清雅的水彩画。白哈巴是色彩的圣殿，是光影的天堂，是自然界中最宏大的叙事诗。这些颜色染遍了天与地，也染遍每一个旅人的心情。<br></font></p><p class=""></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547241" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547241|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547241" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547241|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/w3XaP0TV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/w3XaP0TV.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547242" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547242|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547242" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547242|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/3kEohRkr.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/3kEohRkr.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547243" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547243|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547243" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547243|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/zCmAJKNV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/zCmAJKNV.jpg" height="500" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div></div></div><font size="3">在摄影人的眼中，秋日白哈巴小村的的晨与昏无疑是最美的。<br>斜阳之下，金色的公路蜿蜒穿村而过，牛羊漫步其间，远处映衬<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/aletai427.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_427_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">阿勒泰</a>山的皑皑雪峰，构成一幅完美的油画。<br>趁着天时地利，摄影团发挥了一不怕苦二不怕累的战斗精神，拍完日落拍星空，拍完星空拍日出，几乎全天候作战。<br>26日日落非常壮观，一如每一个晴天。<br>次日，日出前出现的鱼鳞云令人陶醉，但是令人心碎——这种透光高积云直接阻挡了阳光对白哈巴的布施。<br>我们在拍摄点上顶着接近零度的低温，蹲守了3个小时。<br>苦苦厮守的痴心并没有换来上天的怜悯，一点宝贵的光线都没有，而我几乎一无所获。<br>民谚云：“天现鱼鳞云，不雨也风颠”。鱼鳞云乃是冷空气到来前，高层气流不稳定的昭示，而未来多日的天气一如民谚预告，非阴即雨，裹挟着我们的心情，进入沉郁的低潮，仿佛一群饥肠辘辘的吃货，就坐于饕餮盛宴的桌前，却迟迟得不到开饭的许可！<br></font><p></p><p class=""></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547244" class="" data-likeid="27547244|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547244" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547244|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/6V4ObBer.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/6V4ObBer.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547245" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547245|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547245" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547245|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/CdL2DuGV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/CdL2DuGV.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></font></p></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547247" class="" data-likeid="27547247|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547247" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547247|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/8vse5m8r.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/8vse5m8r.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547248" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547248|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547248" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547248|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/EN9sxezW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/EN9sxezW.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></div><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第4天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/b6REY62r.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/b6REY62r.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">为什么要越野？<br>因为山路在那里<br>桦树林在那里<br>因为草原在那里<br>雪山在那里<br>秋天在呼喊<br>我们如何无动于衷？<br>野性在燃烧<br>血里的蛮荒因子在蠢动<br>我们要越野！<br></font><p></p><p></p><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/HoySrYtW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/HoySrYtW.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><div id="img27547251" class="" data-likeid="27547251|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547251" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547251|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/eFf6TRVr.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/eFf6TRVr.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div></div><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div><span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: Arial, 'Droid Sans', 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Hiragino Sans GB', STXihei, simsun, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 32px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></span><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第5天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">9月28日<br>一进入九月，<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">喀纳斯</span>就登基了。<br>造物主挥霍出各种色彩为它加冕——这是秋色之王。<br>处处都是打翻了的调色板，铺成了一万平方公里！<br>是的，整整一万平方公里！<br>就是这么大的手笔！就是这么气焰嚣张！<br>上帝啊！您是不是太过偏爱喀纳斯了！<br>每一株树都是艺术大师，都是发了疯的梵高。<br><br>各种落叶植物积蓄了一年的功力，全都在这一刻完全释放。<br>它们分娩出无数种金色，菊金、黄金、琥珀金、玉米金……<br>金色家族的所有成员无所不至，铺天盖地呼啸而下。<br>金色统治了喀纳斯，金色是喀纳斯的成吉思汗。<br>然而，如果只有金色，喀纳斯未免太单薄太寂寞了。<br>如果只有金色，喀纳斯不足以成为秋日的王者。<br>于是，造物主又调来各种色系的军队，又将群山万壑占领了一番。<br><br>只有喀纳斯的水，不肯放弃它挚爱的蓝色。<br>为了捍卫自己的疆域，喀纳斯的水系们与群山的倒影展开了争夺战。<br>光影游走，风云变幻，水面一会儿是水的诸蓝，一会儿是山的五彩。<br>最激烈的战争不发生在喀纳斯湖，那里湖面极广，水系取得了压倒性的优势，<br>而发生在喀纳斯三湾：<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">神仙湾</span>、<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">月亮湾</span>和<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">卧龙湾</span>。<br></font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">我去三湾的时候，天公不作美，又是阴又是雨。<br>即少了阳光的参和，又少了河间雾的助阵，色彩的战争总缺乏点热烈的味道。<br>即便如此，喀纳斯的湾依然明艳动人。<br>隔着车窗欣赏简直是一种犯罪，没有什么比徒步更能美好的了。<br>经验丰富的领队说，最美的风景并不在这里，而是在路上。<br>对，他说得太对了！<br>然而我已经无法在越野车里忍耐了！<br>仿佛大海里的航海者听到了海妖塞壬美妙的歌声！<br>饭在锅里，人在床上，荷尔蒙已经上脑，哪里听得进劝。<br>管他的，要走就得走，从<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">月亮湾</span>一路走到了<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">卧龙湾</span>。<br><br>站在山顶上，月亮湾像一颗翡翠，随湖光山色的变化而变化。<br>几个由S型的河曲蜿蜒河谷，犹如月落林谷。<br>水平如镜，波澜不惊，更显其静谧，无人不陶醉。<br>月亮湾的静美，只要看上一眼，便会终身难忘。<br><br>在白桦林漫步，在幽蓝波光中感受着秋磅礴的激情。<br>这是多么美妙的时候，任有生花的妙笔，又怎能把它形容？<br>只想静静地走，一直走，直到醉倒在这秋的天堂之中。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547253" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547253|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547253" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547253|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/LYWikJnW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/LYWikJnW.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547254" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547254|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547254" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547254|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ggEwNBPs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ggEwNBPs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547255" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547255|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547255" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547255|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/NymJftgW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/NymJftgW.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547256" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547256|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547256" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547256|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/jR3WGmHs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/jR3WGmHs.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547257" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547257|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547257" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547257|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Q9K99daW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Q9K99daW.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547258" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547258|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547258" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547258|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/nrsnB6Bs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/nrsnB6Bs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547259" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547259|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547259" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547259|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/TK9A3Y4X.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/TK9A3Y4X.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547260" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547260|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547260" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547260|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/p2QNvQvs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/p2QNvQvs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span><p class=""><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Vjx1WJXX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Vjx1WJXX.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></font></p></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">外出旅行，人们往往奔着目的地去寻找风景，常常无暇发现途中的美丽。<br>然而从喀纳斯三湾到禾木乡的公路，根本无需人们去发现美景。因为这条路实在是光彩照人，连盲人都能感受到——不用看，光是听一听行人的欢呼与赞叹，就可以想象大美秋色。<br>北疆的风光太好了，眼睛在天堂，身体却在地狱。<br>经过好几天折腾，我已是又累又乏。听过从喀纳斯景区大门的贾登峪到禾木乡要开一个小时的山路，我暗自窃喜，这样可以乘隙打个盹。<br>刚刚迷糊过去，便听到一阵惊呼声，睁开眼一看，这下再也合不上眼了。<br>原以为看过白哈巴、喀纳斯，见到其他风景，应该会有“曾经沧海难为水，除却巫山不是云”的感怀，然后邂逅禾木公路，我就又成了色里花痴了。<br>哪里都没这里美！黄山？不行，雾太多了！西藏？不行，沿途全是石头山！九寨沟？不行，地盘太小了！<br>哪里都没这里美！处处是风景，连公路都美得这么过分，一路上都是180度的回头弯，简直让人怀疑，这条路的设计师是美院毕业的。<br>这些评价听起来对其他景区并不公平，很有始乱终弃的味道，反正那一刻我就是这么意乱心迷情有独钟。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547262" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547262|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547262" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547262|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/sBfdpAps.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/sBfdpAps.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><div id="img27547263" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547263|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547263" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547263|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/YUWrRtQX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/YUWrRtQX.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547264" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547264|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547264" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547264|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/vcDEikit.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/vcDEikit.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1ukRLdKX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1ukRLdKX.jpg" height="471" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">禾木乡是我们此行遇到最大的村庄，到处都是充满图瓦风情的木屋小院。<br>然而一下车，我哪里都不想去，只想走回头路——我想在那条路上徒步，哪怕只有一段也好！<br>同行的波波说，不如去美丽村吧！<br>美丽村？没听说过啊！很美么？<br>当然啦！美丽村嘛！<br>然后，我就像掉到风流场的花花公子一样，马上把禾木公路忘记了。<br>去美丽村价格不菲，坐摩托过去，来回一百元，其实也就是单程二十分钟的山路。<br>这里风景独好，尽管没有阳光。于是，我又独自徒步回去。<br>一路上走走停停，三公里的山路，我走了差不多三个小时，终于在天黑后，回到了禾木。<br>至于这段路的风景如何，还是看照片吧——一如同行的摄友行客所说：如果美丽的东西都能用语言表达出来，我就不用相机了。<br></font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547266" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547266|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547266" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547266|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/xN35d5ct.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/xN35d5ct.jpg" height="477" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第6天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">28日夜晚星光灿烂，经过连续两个阴天，本以为应该还我们个大晴天。?然而，我们又被晃点了。一觉起来，阴云再一次笼罩了大地。?所谓观景台其实是个小山包，山脚下是白桦林，有小溪在林间流淌，更远些便是禾木乡，此刻全都隐身在暗黑之中。?禾木乡依然在沉睡，只是等候日出的旅人们已经上路了。?天未亮，包围着乡村的小山便开始起雾，起初只是丝丝缕缕，如小段哈达点缀山林；渐渐地这哈达越织越大，沿着山坡舒展开来。??阴云似穹庐，笼盖四野，只是在正东方向微微留出个角，给守候日出的人们一点有聊胜无的微茫希望。??天色照常亮起来，光线把村庄、森林、溪流以及大地的一切从黑夜手中解放出来，但日出终究还是落了空。这希望本无所谓有，接受了倒也不沮丧。?眼瞅着看不到咸蛋黄跃出山尖的一刻，守候日出的游客大多散去，各奔前程，剩下的多是扛着脚架的摄影发烧友。?“好天气是留给初学者的，坏天气是留给大师的。”想一想摄影大拿说的话，权且当做精神胜利的武器吧，没有日出就拍雾气弥漫的村庄呗。?目之所及，哪里都是润润的色调，仿佛能拧得出水了。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">最有意思的还是那些雾，浓浓地，低低地，雾像游手好闲的浪子到处东游西荡，抚弄一把山腰，撩拨一下溪头，调戏一番森林。?被戏弄的还有我们，想要捕捉这些精灵没那么容易，往往等到我们笨拙地扳开脚架构完图，雾却悄悄地开溜了，取景器费劲地追上去，雾又不动声色地遁身了。</font></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/45KhEXDX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/45KhEXDX.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></div><div><div id="img27547268" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547268|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547268" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547268|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Anrv7Q6t.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Anrv7Q6t.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547269" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547269|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547269" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547269|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/7F8JzHxY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/7F8JzHxY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547270" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547270|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547270" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547270|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><div id="img27547271" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547271|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547271" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547271|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/DXPV1A0t.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/DXPV1A0t.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""></p></div><div id="img27547272" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547272|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547272" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547272|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/9fx9tsrY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/9fx9tsrY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547270" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547270|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547270" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547270|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/FyemUkSt.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/FyemUkSt.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/cQVznckY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/cQVznckY.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">天要下雨，雾要耍人，随它们去吧。?干脆什么都不做，那就看看美景聊聊天吧。远处的某个小山隐隐约约露出点阳光，难道阳光就要开始今天的布施么？如闻战斗号角一般，一秒钟前还打得火热的小团伙立马做鸟兽散，各自找寻中意的机位去了。阳光没等来，倒是迎来了一场雨。?占着有冲锋衣庇护，又在雨中支持了半个钟头，依然无法感天动地。?守不到日出云开，只好下撤。?去山脚下的白桦林找点小景拍拍也是好的。细雨中的白桦没有阳光下那种金光闪闪的热烈招摇，像是把阳光都融化进每一片叶子里似的，经过雨水洗礼的白桦树，树叶更加色彩斑斓，树干更加洁自光亮，挺中显秀，安安静静又野性十足，宛如纯洁秀美的牧家姑娘。?我独自在白桦林中徜徉了，许久不愿离去。处处都是风景大作，哪里挪得动道啊。??????再流连，终究还是有道别的时候。?时间不知不觉就到了中午，想起早晨才喝了一杯奶茶，不能不回村子寻觅午餐。?禾木的餐饮和大多数景区一样昂贵，一碗捞不出牛肉的牛肉汤面20元起，但一点都不影响我的心情。在露天里喝着暖烘烘的热汤，远处雪山白云缭绕，树林还在为秋天演奏着最后的乐章。所谓秀色可餐，有这样迷人的风景佐餐，有比这更惬意的事情么？?</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547274" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547274|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547274" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547274|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/J8CNP5Mu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/J8CNP5Mu.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3">当我们的车辆终于离开禾木时，两天多来不曾开恩放晴的天空突然云破天开，奇妙的间隔光四处游走，山间氤氲四起，把这山水弄出种种光影绚烂的神异大美。?我们无不叹惜：要是过去的两天有这样的光线，我们该拍出多少大片来啊！好吧，就当这是喀纳斯特别留给我们的念想吧，为了它，我们势必还要重来的！<br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">这一日，我们从<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">布尔津</span>驱驰可可托海。<br>而前一个下午，摄友团还在布尔津县城西北的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">五彩滩</span>等过日落。<br>我们从禾木赶到五彩滩时，已经是北京时间19点30分了，当地已近黄昏。<br>太阳被厚厚的云层挡着，有晚霞但看不到日落了，除非出现奇迹。<br>残酷的现实反复告诉我：不要相信奇迹，只要还有相信，就无所谓奇迹。<br>五彩滩有限的几个观景台当时还有机位，但没有日落的低光照，岩石就无法出现色彩斑斓的奇景，我就果断放弃。<br>在景区西面的不远处有吊桥，桥下是流向北冰洋的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">额尔齐斯河</span>。河水倒映着远处的云彩，可以拍黄昏剪影，于是我就找个位置，专注剪影。<br>在这以颜色多变著称的雅丹景区，我只拍了几张景区外吊桥的照片，连走马观花的时间都没有留给那些精致的石头们。<br>想想也是醉了，木有办法，我们只为摄影而来，旅游倒在其次。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547275" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547275|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547275" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547275|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><div id="img27547276" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547276|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547276" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547276|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/frk0gWeY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/frk0gWeY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/MJ2dJPFu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/MJ2dJPFu.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3"><br></font></p><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p>?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第7天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p><font size="3"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"></font></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/h1JqbH8Y.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/h1JqbH8Y.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">一路风景迷人，一如既往。<br>下午16点，我们抵达可可托海界内。<br>可可托海，没有可可，也没有海。可可托海是蒙语“蓝色的河湾”，而在哈萨克语里又成了“绿色的丛林”。<br>就在可可托海镇的郊外，我们被这“蓝色的河湾”、“黄绿色的桦树丛林”勾走了三魂七魄。<br>天气大好，心情也大好。<br>在公路边某个不足一公里的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">额尔齐斯河</span>段上，我们居然拍了近4个小时，直到夜幕降临。<br>这一切，完全在计划之外。<br>只因为光线很好，连路旁的景观也醉得人们走不动道了。<br></font><p></p><p></p><p></p><div id="img27547278" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547278|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547278" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547278|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/OiqDCzzu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/OiqDCzzu.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span><p class=""><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/kB8R5s10.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/kB8R5s10.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></p></div><p></p><p></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/RTP4xjtu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/RTP4xjtu.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">走不动道的除了人，还有我的器材。<br>这一北疆的行摄之路真是一场靓爆镜之旅，器材（特别是玻璃片）损失极大：<br>先在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">魔鬼城</span>把手机屏弄碎了；<br>之后在白哈巴遗失了快门线、帽子与右手套；<br>在喀纳斯湖区压坏了海大0.9中灰渐变方片；<br>在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">神仙湾</span>失踪了135L镜头的遮光罩；<br>而在这里，海大3.0中灰方片、海大0.9中灰方片、肯高单镀偏振镜连着滤镜接圈齐齐跌进了湍流不息的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">额尔齐斯河</span>，但愿某天我能够在北冰洋边上发现它们。<br>当然，彼时的我还不能预料，一天以后，我将在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">额尔齐斯大峡谷</span>丢失三脚架，所幸失而复得；两天以后，将在木垒<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡杨林</span>摔坏眼镜片。<br>哎哟，美到失魂落魄了，我历次旅行的损失加起来都不及这次大。</font><p>?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第8天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">10月1日，国庆<br>这一天，我们前往可可托海主景区<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">额尔齐斯大峡谷</span>。<br>额尔齐斯河从这里发源，奔流西去。<br>沿着小河对峙连绵的花岗岩群峰，岩壁缝上生长着白桦树、青松和西伯利亚云杉。<br>整个峡谷都是这样的景致。<br>只是天气不给力，万里阴云，而且是毫无层次的灰云。<br><br>为了争取按原计划在当日赶到千里之外的木垒<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡杨林</span>景区，只能压缩拍摄时间。<br>领队与团友们商定，在这庞大的5A级景区只能拍摄短短1小时。<br>但是往景区深处一走，大家立马改了主意，管他娘的，拍过瘾再说。<br>真是计划不如变化快，我的这帮摄友们大都没带干粮，而景区又少见食品补给点，许多人都是在忍饥挨饿的状态下专注于摄影，没到最后约定的时间，坚决不离开景区！他们都是钢铁猛士！<br>至于我嘛，做为始终没法脱离低级需求的普通人，果断中途脱队觅食，也是饥不择路，到处流窜，终于在某个密林深处，邂逅卖羊肉串的牧民……<br>木有办法，他们只为摄影而来，而我总忘不掉红尘俗事。<br></font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547281" class="" data-likeid="27547281|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547281" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547281|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/obwhYcU0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/obwhYcU0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div id="img27547281" class="" data-likeid="27547281|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547281" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547281|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><font size="3"><br></font><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Tudur4nu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Tudur4nu.jpg" height="234" style="font-size: medium; border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></p></div></div><br><p></p><p><br><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第9天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">10月2日<br><br>新的一天，在疲惫中开始。<br>为了在日出前赶赴木垒原始<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡杨林</span>，我们从可可托海出发，开了11个小时的夜车，终于在7点前抵达目的地。<br>此时的天还没亮，摄友们大都疲乏不堪，纷纷就地打起瞌睡。<br>看着天一点点地泛白，我有些焦急，准备独自进林子拍照。<br>领队反对，说这里有狼出没，去年还曾遇到。<br>狼？还能拍野生动物岂不大好？但领队态度坚决，我只好作罢。<br>等到大家缓过劲来集体行动时，我早就迫不及待了，很快就走到了最前头。<br><br>从停车点到胡杨林子，还有一两公里的路要走。<br>路遇一位西安美院的老师，姓陈，也是去看日出的，他很热情地向我介绍这片林子的情况。他原以为这里的胡杨林应该像额济纳或<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">轮台</span>那样，有河流、有沙漠、有遮天蔽日的林地，然而昨日踩了点之后才发现，这里只是一片戈壁，胡杨林大都散乱地孤立着，往往隔上十好几米甚至更远才有同类，更多的是红柳、沙柳这类的灌木。<br>戈壁里有条踩出来的土路，沿着路走了十几分钟，胡杨树渐渐多起来，在黑暗中影影绰绰地，只是路西的胡杨树更多些。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547283" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547283|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547283" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547283|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/qMVHTWO0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/qMVHTWO0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547284" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547284|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547284" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547284|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/W4CVkPgv.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/W4CVkPgv.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/tnj8NGH0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/tnj8NGH0.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></font></p></div></div><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">考虑到日出，我就往东边去了。东边的胡杨稀稀落落地，往往隔着几十米才能遇到一株，但大都低矮，最高也不过三米，树姿的造型也简单，与我心中的期待还是有很大差距的。<br>我在偌大的荒野中转来转去，也没有找到特别理想的日出拍摄点。<br>不知不觉，太阳已经跃出了地平线，而我仍在旷野里东游西荡吗，直到我发现一株枯树。<br>时间摧毁了它的树冠，岁月击穿了它的躯干，留下个古老的树洞，而此时的太阳正在它的脚下升起。<br>刹那间，我脑洞大开，太阳穿过洞将会是什么样子？<br>带着这个念想，我果断向附近的土坡飞奔，找好位置，升脚架，上长焦。<br>当太阳在树洞里穿行时，一个老妖精显身了，它束着古老的发髻，还有长长的眉毛。它伸出手，攫取一颗明珠，试图往嘴里送去。<br>几秒钟后，这个明珠却溜走了，溜上了天空，将大地照了个透亮。<br>胡杨林终于揭开了神秘的面纱，我们可以仔细将它打量了。<br>太阳升起后不久，朝云便消失了，只剩下一片干干静静的晴空。<br>光线渐强，阳光也刺眼起来，最佳的拍摄时机已过。<br>我正准备撤退。晴空却又悄悄地起云了。<br>开始只是一两片，之后是遮天蔽日般涌现，配合着胡杨树那鬼斧神工般的形态，从取景器里看上去，更使你感到大自然的壮美。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">回到景区大门旁的旅馆，吃罢了午饭，才想起早饭还没吃过呢。<br>这个念头一起，人就感觉累坏了。回到客房，外衣都懒得脱，扑倒在床上立马就睡了。下午五点半，闹钟响起才醒过来，发现自己居然还趴着，连睡姿都没变过。<br><span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">新疆</span>的六点相当于内地的四点钟，摄友们集合好了就往胡杨林赶，拍日落去。<br>此时的景区熙熙攘攘的，许多人往景区里走去，而更多的人都在往回走，浩浩荡荡的队伍，一眼看去，足足有上千人之多。此时正是国庆假期，见怪不怪了。<br>回来的游客大都在抱怨：这是什么破地方啊，不来可能后悔，来了绝对后悔！<br>他们说的一点都没错，这里绝对不是适合普通游客玩赏的地方。<br>此时烈日当空，之前的云朵早就失踪了。在顶光直射下，每一株胡杨林都是灰头土脸，几小时前金灿灿的的叶子，现在土黄土黄的。<br>胡杨树下，人声鼎沸，大人呼，小孩闹。风吹过，烟尘滚滚，远远看去，活像一片混乱的战场。<br></font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">直到七点后，大多数游客都走光了，太阳西斜。<br>此时景区突然摇身一变，仿佛宝物抽走了破旧的罩子，叫人眼前发亮。<br>在光线的斜射下，胡杨叶子像点着了火一般，发出金黄或火红的光芒，微风吹过，闪闪发亮。<br>云彩又重新集结了，在天空游戏起来。<br>在这些云彩的带动下，胡杨树又重新焕发了生命一般。有的似武士授徒，有的像夸父追日，有的如术士斗法，简直成了魔幻世界。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547286" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547286|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547286" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547286|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/0E1mezav.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/0E1mezav.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""></p></div><div id="img27547287" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547287|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547287" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547287|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/wWJyGrB0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/wWJyGrB0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第10天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p><font size="3">第10天，也就是旅程的最后一天，我们又早早起床，再次等来胡杨林的日出。<br>然后，踏上返回<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">乌鲁木齐</span>的路途，北疆之行也就这样结束了。<br></font></p><p></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/2fqM9j3v.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/2fqM9j3v.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p>
